On What's Important---from the coffee shop

Idle in San Diego, I belay at the local coffee shop in San Diego. Sipping green tea with milk I search my mind in retrospect over the last week of travel.
I left San Diego one week ago to attend the Salt Lake City Outdoor Retailer Trade show. I hitched a ride with Carlos Mason and Anayo Baldassari to Vegas. There, I met up with Chris Lindner, Spencer Mcrosky, (two climbing buddies whom I've spent a lot of time with this summer), and Joe Brooks. We left early Tuesday morning for Nephi, shortly west of our destination, Maple Canyon. The boys ate Taco Time right off the exit, where I was surprised to find whole wheat.
Annually, an event dubbed, "Cobble fest" attracts road trippers from all over the states. The event offers an opportunity to hang out before the seasonal retailer show. One of the event organizers: Jeff Petterson, even put together t-shirts for the low key, unsponsored event. We only had about 24 hours, 3 people (joe climbed at another cliff), jet lag, and 1 rope; so it was a bit hard to get super psyched. I worked on a juggy line called 'Sprout', which involved fairly easy movement on good holds following a line out the right side of the "Pipe Dream Cave". I camped on the soft soil that night, my clothes, a burrito, wrapped in an inside out sleeping bag case, fearing rain would escape the sky. I woke more refreshed than any bed had ever hosted, I was happy to be natural.
We left for Salt Lake around 2 or 3 p.m., checked into a hotel (that was under Chris's name, supplied by Maxim) and got to partying. Even if you're competing, your main objective for the trade show, should be to drink. Don't drink much? Have a few, kick back, and shut up, cause there ain't much else to do. My shrieks of laughter pierced the car, for I laughed at no punch line, just my alcohol laden life juice, that sparkled with energy in the night.
My main objective besides letting loose, was to make some contacts in the industry. Contacting Urban Climber was a priority, as was speaking to some people from PrAna clothing. Both initiatives turned out positive. Joe Iurato from Urban Climber magazine is psyched on me doing some work, as well as I am psyched to be offered such a great opportunity. Jeff Leads handed me the unique opportunity of being able to represent PrAna climbing for years of traveling to come.
True friends are the images that come to mind, in the time we find to periodically intertwine. I find my sign corresponds to others, with people from different situations, upbringings and mothers. Like Buck Branson for instance, met him four years ago, in the front of coffee shop, his cell phone he beholds, "check out these photos from black mountain you see, this is a v10 and that person is me." Now four years have passed, and I'm on the v10, it's amazing to compare the present to then. Buck and I sat at a table this trip, and Buck is my only friend that doesn't talk shit. I respect him for that, and respect his kindness, because it's not very often on earth that you find this. It's amazing to notice, small things affect another, so next time you talk, think of the words that you mutter.
San Diego is going well. I have rekindled my fascination with running, and with sore arms and pecs from pull ups, have decided to take a few days off from climbing . Tomorrow I work at Vertical Hold, where I volunteer mornings to help young future athletes rock climb. After I'll attend a Padre game with my dear girlfriend Lahna, her mother, Dena and her mother, Lou.
Tonight, my mother's fiance, Kannen had his birthday at a nice Thai restaurant in town. Here I met a man named Jim who is the chancellor at Mira Costa College. Jim was a professional skier for Ten years. He rested at the best skiing areas when in season, and related positively toward the climbing I pursue. In a discussion ranging from Utah's blondies, to job opportunities, I concluded with a goal: Self worth cannot be measured in material wealth, or a degree. The only thing that can make one happy is a sense of spiritual fulfillment, plus the hard work that led up to it. By building climbing walls and taking kids outside, I want to help Urban Children get out of the environment they live. If I earn no money doing such, than I earned even more worth in respect, from others and myself. I want to step out of the world for a second, take a look at myself, and disengage from the selfish routine we all seem to enjoy. I have never been afraid of giving myself to the less fortunate, and along with climbing, this is something I have always been passionate about. Stay strong. -Scotty
Also my cousin Mark and awesome wife Christine have brought Charlotte Frances Lear into the world! Congrats guys, and bless my new second cousin!
Plus, don't stress, OdUb international climbing rap star and myself should be coming out with a bangin' track this season, so keep yo' headz up!

NEWS FROM THE COBRA

A BLOG ENTRY FROM KEVIN JORGESON

BOULDER OF THE YEAR 2007

Hi Everyone!!I'm hanging out in a coffee shop/kids play center. Who thinks of thesethings? Seriously! Combining one of the greatest pleasures in life (coffee)with screaming infants! Oh well.The weather has been, well, hot. Very hot. And very humid. Its kind of likedipping your hands in butter and then trying to climb holds made of glass.Still fun though!For a day by day blow of the trip, check out my "journal" on my site, but Iwanted to share some other stuff with you guys. Like pictures! Check out theattached mini trip report.Every morning I crawl out of my stinky tent (VERY STINKY), stumble around"Tarplandia" (our camp name) for some coffee, then walk up a hill to admirethe view of the valley and lake. Yesterday morning I was doing just thiswhen I saw my first bald eagle! So cool!There is sooo much to climb here. The Grand Wall, or The Chief, features 1- 7 pitch trad climbs on impeccable granite. I've get to climb this featurebut plan on it soon. I did the classic Exasperator Crack, laughing the wholeway (see pic. Its not me though).The bouldering in the forest is small and concentrated. The granite heredoesn't lend itself to many holds, so most of the boulder problems are liptraverses. There are a few good lines though, like the one in the tripreport, called Be On 4, a classic v7 Charlie Barret and I did. Super fun. Ohyea, Charlie is here! It's been awesome to hang with him this whole time.Guy is a riot. I've been up to the Cobra Crack 3 times now. See attached pic. It's reallyhard! It starts in the dihedral with some 5.12 stemming and finger locksbefore pulling onto the slab and a no hands rest. Next is another section ofhard 5.12 finger locks to a jug. From here, it's sick. Two set up moves getyou in position for a seriously hard reach for a distant lock. I've onlydone this move maybe twice. 4 or five more moves set you up for the secondcrux. You reach high with your right hand for an undercling mono with theright middle finger, backstep the left foot, and do your best to lock it offfor the next reach. Stick this, reach left hand up, pinky down lock, andkick your feet above your head into a heel toe lock. Hang off the heal toeand reach out left to some edges. Swivel out of the heel toe and high stepto a jug. Heinous! Its hard to maintain psyche when it is SO PAINFUL. Myvery first try yesterday yielded a torn pinky finger, through the tape!Anyway, enough climbing talk. The weather is taking a turn for the worst.Its raining right now and will be for the next few days. I anticipate manyrest days in front of the computer, so email me so I look like I'm doingsomething while I stare aimlessly at this screen for hours at a time, jackedup on caffeine and pastries!

Relationships and Climbing...a tough subject

by Scotty Glasberg
With only one week back at home. My mind raced between crucial decisions I had to make between school, love and climbing. “Is this class still open?”” Will it even help my future?” “I can’t take a rest day, I will become weak. Is the Outdoor retailer show worth the time and effort?” “Will it damage my relationship?” Either a “yes” or “no” would have been a sufficient answer, but only my indecisiveness would respond. Trying to meditate as I drifted over the ocean swells on my surfboard was hard. These thoughts were the mist of my mind; easy penetrable by the rays of the sun, but would take time to burn off.
This actual meteorology and the fictional weather of my mind, was a common setting in the San Diego life. School was stressing me out, which made it hard to deal with the person I am most fond of, my girlfriend, Lahna. Between the time I spent in the morning surfing, and the effort I put into climbing during the day, it was hard to give her the quality time that both of us needed. Hence, I was soon to learn, that out of the deepest moments of stress and despair, is in concealment one of the biggest lessons to be learned.
I found myself trying to live the life of a traveling climber at home. I felt more connected to climbing by doing this; life was like a constant road trip. Eating healthy is an important lifestyle to me. I consume organic Granola in the morning, covered with Dates, Bananas and covered with Soy Yogurt. I then proceed to the library, sending out emails to different people who I had to respond too.
Concurrently, I had to enroll for a good class at school, so a lot of my time in S.D. involved several trips of dropping, adding classes, meeting with counselors, and seeing if specific online classes would transfer. My mind was foggy, running around, the distractions of life became so overwhelming I couldn’t grasp anymore, what it was to be glad, simple and at peace.
Hanging out my window like a dog trying to absorb life and breathe, my girlfriends inherit beauty wisped through my hair, in the form of the wind from my open window. . It was my fault to tell Lahna that I was having trouble making decisions, because the most attractive person is a competent one. I wanted her next to me, and for all my other priorities to be unknown, or at least for only me to know. I worried about my imperfections, and tried to show her, the girl that I love so very much, that I could deal with pressures maturely.
I listened to the soothing sounds of reggae as I traveled in the misty early morning to go admire the glassy surf. Taking deep breaths eased the constant distractions that moved fluidly through my mind.
Things between Lahna and I were getting harder to deal with. She is leaving for a four year university, and I am attending online classes and practicing my rock climbing on the road. The stress seemed to climax one night when I discovered that she was not sure she wanted to consider our long distance relationship. Even if we were not going to see each other every day, our strong love would hold us together; I thought we had already worked all this out. I was amazed to her struggling with the stress of the times, just as much as I was. We proclaimed our love for each other, but I thought that night was the last time I would kiss her sweet lips.
Ironically, the next morning, I rose up singing in the summertime. Ironic because I had heard Janis Joplin speak of this phenomenon. I tried not to focus on my newest loss, and hopped quickly in the shower.
I ate my grains, yogurt, dates, and bananas accompanied with plain coffee. We drove in the morning sorbet skies to the Riverside Quarry. I received a message on my cell phone from my love, “are you in Riverside are you o.k.?”, Even though I desperately wanted confirmation she missed, I declared I need time to think. I wanted to focus on my climbing for the morning and have one day without speaking to Lahna.
I traveled home, trained at the gym, went for an afternoon surfing session, and delivered a letter to my so called “former girlfriend”. After I ate food with my mother and her fiancé, Kannen whom I enjoy, I skated down to the local market and bought the most expensive pint of beer I could find. I proceeded up to my friend’s house where I started to drink the beverage and started to loath over my loss.
I returned to my casa and couldn’t take not speaking to Lahna. Receiving a private call that night with no one on the other line, I sensed that we missed each other just the same, I then called. Her voice sounded like morning after a good night’s rest, as we then proceeded to inform each other that we wished we had hung out that day.
The next morning there was no fog at the beach, and the sun flowered across the ocean revealing the clarity of the water. We planned to meet at the local organic food store after I was done surfing. As Lahna walked in the store her face looked more beautiful than ever, and as I wrapped my arms around her beautiful frame. Buying her a drink I found no more value in the money that I would selfishly save for my climbing journeys; I felt a sense of renewal, I was so grateful to have her back, that no material item or worldly distraction could take that joy away from me. I had learned that sometimes you don’t realize what you really have until it is gone. Like Peter Tosh once said “you do not miss your water, till your well runs dry.”
We sat on the bumper of my car while listening to Jimmy Cliff and ate our meals. The pressures of school seemed minimal when everything took care of itself through online enrollment. All the classes that I needed to transfer were transferable, and I confidently walked back to the car with Lahna in the front seat feeling ready and embark to the Outdoor retailer tradeshow.
I gained knowledge about love in the time that I was back at home. When you love something so much, it is hazardous to let minor distractions come between you and something so close to your heart. Treat every moment that is to be enjoyed, with a perspective that is like the first day you were ever to experience it. With every new day, pretend like it is a new item or experience. Excited like a child, open the present of each day like it was Christmas morning. The distractions of life will ease themselves off like the ebb of the tide when I walk from the surf back to my car. Stay tuned…