From Brett Johnston- ASANA ATHLETE

my long weekend in salt lake city
The vertical world climbing team went down to Salt Lake City on June 13th to compete in the USAC divisional championship. Since i am not competing this year i went down as assistant coach. Of course through this competition i get a two day climbing trip to utah. Me and my coach Tyson went to American Fork and climbed many 1990's test pieces put up by greats like Boone Speed. At 95 degrees it was hard to climb in the sun but a nice shady wall wasn't too bad. Between watching the Vertical World kids tear it up and the sweaty limestone cliffs it was an overall good trip.

Trash Talk about Gym Climbing

From Asana Athlete and Climbing Advocate, Scott Glasberg

Youth, Adults, Demographics, and Impressions

Gym Climbing has became the new playground for the Modern Climber. No longer is climbing on plastic training for climbing, gym climbing is now the place to climb. Growing up in San Diego, where surfing and road biking are more acknowledged than climbing, it is easy to see how more people are being introduced to climbing in a gym, rather than in a natural environment. Let’s examine how has this recent influx of gyms changed the demographic and face of climbing in general. Also, how does plastic influence the mentality of someone new to climbing? Climbing gyms are breeding grounds for young, upcoming dedicated climbers. Indoor climbing gyms are replacing after school activities, summer camps, and organized sports for many youngsters. Climbing gyms bring in younger kids, wielding more experience for those youngsters planning to keep climbing. This increases the amount of kids climbing, the overall popularity of the sport, and the strength of these future climbers. I can only forecast that with more kids becoming involved, the greater chance there will be stronger and stronger climbers appearing. As indoor rock replaces a location to introduce Rock Climbing, Gym Climbing is more readily available for those wanting to crank. The business-man who dislikes traditional work out regimen; or the stay at home mother, who doesn’t always have time to go on weekend trips, both find their escape through a couple hours of activity at the gym. From a young teen getting their kicks on lunging between small holds, to the over 40 woman increasing their fitness level, the density and population of climbing is increasing because of climbing gyms. Simply, Climbing Gyms make climbing a growing sport. Now what does this mean for the future of the nation? Analysts say that gas prices will decrease. The demography of climbers in climbing areas will increase, more gyms will be built, and people will have to commute less, sources claim. “Climbing gyms and our morals and virtues will restore humans to a more “natural man” state.” Said the last dirt-bag vagabond. Secondly, demographics regarding birth, marriage, disease and death, all are staggering with the influx of climbing gyms. With more single climbers mingling with one another, the rules of attraction (which were mentioned in a previous article, “Climbing Grades: Advantages, Disadvantages, and sex”) are sure to prevail. We notice that two main factors that attract two partners are Similarity and Proximity. Climbing Gyms act as a medium to increase these factors. The similar interest of climbing will most definitely attract two figures. Once a common similarity bond is shared, these two sweaty gym rats will realize how close they live to one another. This defines proximity: where we tend to fall in love with those who live close to us, rather than our possible soul mate who lives in Constantinople. Climbing critics believe demographics regarding disease and death will drastically decrease once people become familiar with climbing. I asked Hangontodat Crimper, and he stated, “The climbing mentality could save the world. Healthy Eating, Obsessive Exercise, and an Ecological mindset can only wield positive results’ climbing just needs to get more popular!” Notice climbing gyms are wielding positive results in society. The youths are getting stronger, and folks uncommon to climbing are now common, and the world could be saved because of climbing. Let’s take a gander at the only worry I have about climbing gyms: Their effect on how people perceive what climbing is all about. The Gym being the new medium for climbing, influences the mentality of someone who is being newly introduced, to be obscured. The gym climber does not have the privilege of a first impression. He or she lacks the impression of what climbing really is. First Impressions can be the most important things that determine the passion of a relationship. Indoor Climbing does not offer the same impression that outdoor climbing does. Until, a rock climber has an outdoor experience will he/she realize if they are passionate for climbing or not. For instance, the aspects of mentors and patience play a huge factor. A mentor from an outdoorsman’s perspective may give insight into the patience of the climbing journey for the climber. Where as, a new climber in a gym atmosphere does not recognize the true power of the climbing process, and may grow frustrated. It is only until the climber is reaffirmed with a natural connection, an uplifting second impression, that he or she will begin to love ‘real’ rock climbing. Those who have outdoor experience fuel the right atmosphere for these children, and adults alike. Impressions are everything, when meeting a woman, getting a job, or a random person on the street; impressions dictate the future of a relationship. This is how impressions and attractiveness work: When you have an impression of something that goes from bad to good, this is great, you will tend to like what ever the impression is of, more. Vice Versa when impressions go from good to bad, forget about it being attractive. Gyms can either build someone’s relationship with the climbing world, or quickly snatch their interest away. With this in mind, I can’t stress enough to encourage outdoor activity enough. The outdoors gives children a respect for nature, a chance to for a unique insight into virtues, and life long lessons to stand for.

Update from Scott Fitzgerald, Asana Athlete

Hey Asana!
It looks like your time at the Teva Games was well worth the effort!Amazing job on the flooring!!Another month has passed like lightning and is full of adventure and learning.The job at the local restaurant and saloon is going well. I'm learning a lot about the restaurant business and local Wyoming ranch culture..lol.Climbing this last month has been devoted mainly to getting multi-pitch rock guide certified and doing some guiding on the tower.In mid May, I took a 7 day long 7a-7p guide certification course. It went super well and I got certified to multi-pitch guide. It was a lot of work and we put quite a bit of rock beneath our shoes.Other than the multitudes of easier guiding routes this last month, I haven't done too much hard stuff on the tower.My life has been eaten up by waiting tables and guiding...but hey, I have to work sometime. :-)I have had a Yosemite trip in the plans for at least 4 months, so on May 31st we (I and a friend from home) packed up and left the tower for Yose to do walls and long free routes.We got here to the Valley late on the 1st and headed straight for our first wall of the trip. (West Face of Leaning Tower) We stayed on the wall the 2nd-3rd and came down that night. Since then we have been doing longer free routes to get ready for our goal of the trip. We want to do the Nose in a day together.We are taking a much needed 1.5 day's of rest before getting back on the rock and shooting for that goal. We hope to get on the Nose within a week to try our NIAD venture.
In other news, the production company "Ghettohillbilly Productions" out of Arkansas is doing very well. We are having a time of it by working together over 2000 miles apart, but we are making headway. It's another hot summer in AR, so we are devoting it to learning how to edit and produce. We are waiting on better conditions in the south to get harder problems/routes and better shots.Right now it is a three person production company with only 2 people actually in AR. I have one of the 2 cameras with me getting some western footage. The Devils Tower video still might work out depending on my free time and schedule later this summer...we shall see."Ghettohillbilly Productions" got on the front page of UCMag.tv!!! Check it out! Things are looking good.
I'd still really like to swing by Boise on the way back to Wyoming, but it is still up in the air depending on how long it takes us to accomplish our goals here in the valley.
I think the rest of the day calls for hanging out in the El Cap Meadow starring at the Captain.
That's about it for now,--Scott

Adam's thoughts on Teva Games

Every year during the first weekend in June, the Teva Mountain Games come to Vail. This year promised to be bigger and better with the addition of the World Cup event taking placing. This was the first time in 20 years that a World Cup has come to the states. I competed in the citizen’s competition and the speed bouldering comps. On Saturday morning I made the drive up to Vail to compete and see what this year would bring. In years past there has been 3 inches of snow and then a bright sunny day the next minute. This year the weather held up and the comp had nice sunny weather. The wall this year was changed from the familiar mushroom boulder to the World Cup wall. Eight sections of varying terrain from vertical to intense overhangs. They limited the registration to avoid long lines and ensure people would be able to climb, since they had to run a tight ship for the World Cup in the afternoon. Everything was going great then the plan to avoid long lines to get on a climb failed. Climbs crossed onto other sections and people were forced to wait even longer. Eight judges for each of the sections with 32 problems spread out along the wall. There were 132 competitors and most only got 8-10 climbs in in the three hours. It was a problem to say the least. You did not have time to warm up and usually only got one try maybe two on a given problem. On the bright side, the wall was amazing. The problems were some of the best that I have seen from a comp in a long time. One problem on the overhang section started on a big feature with two crimps then a dyno to a split jug then some moves followed on slopey crimps into a cross for a good crimp, then a few crimps tackled the head wall before latching the final jug. On the far left slightly overhanging section, a problem started on a slopey pinch and a big jump up to a climb it sandstone hold. You then swung your foot over and rocked over to a bad pinch. Followed by a hard move to come into a another pinch for the left hand. You then brought your foot up to the sandstone hole and went to another sandstone hold. You had to adjust your hand and do a big dyno move to the finishing jug. I managed to do the big jump move as static as possible by locking that sandstone hold off for as long as possible before the final leap of faith to the jug. They also left two problems up from the World Cup Qualifier to test people’s skills.Hopefully next year they get the wall situation settled and more climbing can take place.

World Cup in Vail

Just arrived in Vail and went up to take a look at the competition wall. The Pyramide wall looks fantastic and the Asana pads look spectacular as well. The folks at USA Climbing, unfortunately, are having to set routes in the rain. It has been pouring most of the day, but they have the entire wall tarped off.
Tomorrow the qualifiers for the World Cup begin. There should be tons of excitement in the air as competitors come from all over the world to compete. This is the first time the United States has hosted this international climbing event, so we are thrilled to have the opportunity to have done the flooring for the wall.

Climbing Grades: Advantages, Disadvantages, and Your Sex Life.

More Insight From Scotty Glasberg>> Asana Athelete

Grades have been classifying our the difficulty of outdoor activities since the early 20th Century. The Sierra Club in the 1930’s categorized activity harder than class 4 hiking as class 5 rock climbing. This “Rock Climbing” involves technical free climbing involving a belay and a rope. Later, a young Gymnast and Mathematician was one of the first rock Climbers to legitimize bouldering as a sport in itself. John Gill developed the B Scale, classifying boulder problems into 3 levels: B1 is defined as the harder than the traditional free climb. B2 was something harder than that, where B3 was something that had not been repeated. In the early 1990’s John Sherman developed the V-scale to rate boulder problems, this is still in effect today. Throughout history climbers have been pushing the limits of physical strength on rock. In the 1950’s a V7 was in effect, the occasional V9 move was executed, but nothing was ever thought to be graded as such. In the 1970’s pioneers like Jim Holloway regularly cranked V12. Holloway still has problems that have not seen a second. You can take It as you want, but this whole grading thing, has gone a little bit out of control.
Grades are stepping stones for the modern climber. There are advantages and disadvantages of Rock Climbing Grades. First things first an analogy:
You go to your local surf shop and check out a surf guide. You notice that most of the surf spots around you are for beginners, but you’ve been surfing your whole life, and you want some gnarl waves to get shacked in. You turn the pages reading further, and find the perfect spot: big waves, shallow reefs, and this beach is known for the hot ladies or men (depending on your sex) tanning on the shore. Hold this picture… Let’s take this back to rock climbing. Climbing grades provide insight into what an area has to offer. You wouldn’t take a novice climber to a cliff that has 5.12 warm ups, nor would an advanced climber ideally want to go to a spot with everything below 5.12. The novice would have a hard time having his/her tendons holding up, and the advanced climber would have no fun working routes. Grades like surf spots have different levels of difficulty. An advantage to grades is that they provide the climber with the most opportune climbing for their ability. Grades can provide a safe atmosphere suiting a climber’s ability. Grades can save your life, and can also save your tendons.
Now what disadvantages do climbing grades pose? The relentless pursuit of climbing the hardest grades makes us lose sight in the natural enjoyment of climbing. Wouldn’t it be nice to walk up to a route and climb just for the fact it’s beautiful line? If too hard no grade would be there to serve as a disadvantage. Point being, besides personal experiences, there is no real reference chart for grading climbs. It depends on the style of the climber, and their motivation to succeed. This is why some of the best climbers don’t grade their climbs, there is no concrete logic behind grading, they want everyone to try it. There is reason for everyone to climb what they want to climb, and a number shouldn’t dictate that. In some ways grading is disadvantageous to the sport of climbing. I mean, Midnight Lightning wasn’t established because the grade would be tough, Midnight Lightning was established because John “Yabo” Yablonski , Bachar, Kauk, and who ever else was there had the passion and imagination to climb something futuristic. All they knew, was that it was hard. John Gill’s early B1, B2, B3 is hard to apply to today’s bouldering standards because we have pushed the standards in sport and traditional climbing very high. I do find a similar scale to be quite suitable: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced, and Super Advanced scale could give climbers a larger spectrum that takes away the hype of high grades and could be designed to translate well from modern standards.
The V scale and the YDS have obviously gone out of control. High Grading techniques and ability to climb them is now used to attract the opposite sex. This new increase in grades is obviously evolution in mating techniques for the modern climbing savage. When I first arrived in Hueco Tanks in 2006 I was told that if I wanted a lady, a had to send V10 first.
“Why was this?” I asked myself.
Is it the muscles on a V10 climber? Is it their superior wisdom? Or is it the size of their “crash pad”? These plus many factors are why the screams of an expert climber attract the opposite sex while in heat. First, we like those that are competent, or almost perfect. Socially Psychologically proven, those who are perfect, that commit a small blunder are dubbed more attractive. When sending for the opposite sex, make sure you make a very stupid mistake the first burn, and send it the next. This is sure to result in an intense mating ritual, and if not increases your attractiveness.
Another strategy used by the wild animal sender is their overall ability to help those around them progress. We are attracted to those that help us progress rather than assist our downfall. When the savage beast sender completes a difficult route, his/her attractiveness rises a considerable amount. Those around him/her can deduce that the savage can in fact teach them how to climb well and survive in the wild climbing world. When out at the cliff, make sure you spot these wild animals and protect your significant other, or these beasts may end up wooing him/her over.
In conclusion, we can recognize that grades can provide a safe haven and fun atmosphere for the progressing climber. Also notice that grades can deter from the natural enjoyment of climbing: We climb what looks beautiful and challenging for us. We have also recognized that climbing hard can increase attractiveness. By climbing hard routes your chances of pro-creation increase considerably. Competence and looking Progressive are the keys to attracting the opposite sex. Maintain those guidelines and you will be able to survive in this wild climbing world.