--from scotty glasberg, Asana athlete--
ob•ses•sion n1. an idea, or feeling that completely occupies the mind
Encarta® World English Dictionary © 1999 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved. Developed for Microsoft by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.I am obsessed with climbing. My mornings are not of leisure but of dedication. The same haul to the crag, can symbolize a monk’s bowl of rice in the morning. Not another thought can cross my mind between reminiscing of last nights dream, and how much time I have to climb before I have to attend to my daily errands. I feel stressed, like the unknowing feeling before you get on a roller coaster. It’s all worth it to the obsessed climber, me and climbing comes before all. For this is my meditation, my discipline, my life. Walking away from the dawn filled east approaching my local bouldering development, I see my shadow cast in the morning dew. More spiritual than anything, I most times find myself alone, sitting aside a river or at the bottom of a Mt. Woodson crack thinking of how happy this spiritual routine makes me. As the sound of water, and the smell of pine engulfs my senses:“Boy do I wish I had someone to share this with.” I say to myself, looking back up at the newly discovered climb. “No, I don’t.” This oneness is ‘Zen like’. Sitting here obsessed there is no one here to judge me, no color, no personality, or hype. Only my animal instinct about how I must finesse my way up the oversized pebble. Figuring out new sequences till the perfect one clicks. Either this ascent was the most beautiful rock climb ever, or it wasn’t but doing it sure made me feel great. An obsessed rock climber, creates new friendships, with new boulders, new routes, and people alike. Now is obsession better than not being obsessed? Well my brotha, let me tell you. I can’t really because it is all about preference. It’s like whether you like riding a skateboard goofy or regular; or if you like your tea hot or cold. Although there are consequences of both, like cold tea on a cold day, if your seven days on, you might not have that same power or endurance at the beginning of the cycle. Either you like being outdoors 7 days a week (with the possibility of fatigue), or you enjoy rest, with more time for your skin to heal (maybe a few more ounces of muscular energy). Despite your skin and muscular fatigue, climbing daily gets you more fit, there’s no doubt about it. For me I believe it is best to overload. Climb obsessively, be totally involved, have your whole life centered around your single focus of sending. When your skin it totally raw and you can barely do those pull ups in the morning, you then know that it’s your time to rest. Take a few days off. You could think of yourself as a Buddhist monk who has just been disciplined for 7 days now being sent out to the woods to reflect on your teachings. Your mind will process all this climbing you have just done, 7 days of cramming you need a bit of time for your brain tissue to absorb. These spiritual siestas are about your body being the temple. Notice what is sore, where you feel strength gains and keep your thoughts positive. Eat extremely healthy and don’t stuff with junk. When you feel yourself peaking in strength,, it is then time to think about returning to the cliff or bouldering area.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Sunday, May 18, 2008
The New
I feel like going big again today, like "big picture". So if this psychobabble is too much for you, then you may need to talk to someone about it. I am a psychology major, so taking the simple to ridiculous levels of analysis is seemingly what I do with my life. Rather than watching soap operas or making others around me miserable trying to create drama, I look deeper. There is plenty of interesting stuff deep in the psyche. None of what I have to say today refers directly to climbing, but it has everything to do with how you accept challenges.
Stress is created by "The New". We experience new things all of the time: new jobs, new schools, places to live, marital status, changes in our mind. When I was 28 I somehow managed to do all of these big "first time" things within a 6-month time frame. I moved across the US, got a new job, got a new dog, got married, and tried to find a new group of friends to make it all seem natural. To add to these experiences, a year and a half later, I was proud new father. Let me tell you, I was a wreck for a while. All of the change created too much stress and strain. Making constant adjustments like this can be hell on a person. I don't have that job, that house, or that marriage anymore. Of course I still have my daughter. She is my favorite reminder of what true love is. She keeps me stable. She makes my life very worth living.
So you're probably thinking that I sit in a calm existence now, making every attempt I can to keep my life stable. You're probably thinking that I have rejected all things new so that I can avoid stress. Well, you're wrong. In fact, I've done the exact opposite because guess what? I survived all of that craziness that I went through. EMERGING IS AN AMAZING EXPERIENCE. In fact, I recommend it highly.
These days, I do my best not to set myself up for failure like I did somewhat unknowingly in my in my late 20s. All this being said I much state that I still take risks, big ones in fact. But they seem a little more calculated. "The New" is too fun to pass up. It is my life's adventure, my next day, my horizon in the distance. Without the excitement of a unique, new experience, we become stale. I don't want to ever become that guy sitting on the couch scared to go outside, scared to take on a new challenge, scared of failure. I want to throw myself into the new.
You should do the same. Go for it, dive in with all of your energies. I know you've had that thought to make a move, to do something slightly out of your comfort zone. Sitting around contemplating it isn't nearly as thrilling as doing it. If there is passion behind your decision, then it's bound to work out. Your motivations will be oozing from your pores. Sure, you may scare a few people with your energy, but that's their problem. You'll surely scare some because most of the time people are doing their best to stay asleep, to steer clear of things that might make them feel uneasy, to avoid something that might change their life. Don't fall into that trap yourself. There's too much to gain from taking that first step.
Just to make sure you understand how much I believe in what I am saying, I have , in fact, recently taken on a new venture, and the chemicals in my brain are screaming with such excitement that I have a hard time sleeping. I have a hard time getting through a day without distraction. I would swear that the world is a brighter place. "The New" has such a enticing draw for me and I am giving into it again with all that I have, moving towards a new horizon. Not everything in my life is changing, just one thing. So I think I'll easily survive this one. There isn't a doubt in my mind that I will emerge from this one a better person.
I can feel the growth already.
Stress is created by "The New". We experience new things all of the time: new jobs, new schools, places to live, marital status, changes in our mind. When I was 28 I somehow managed to do all of these big "first time" things within a 6-month time frame. I moved across the US, got a new job, got a new dog, got married, and tried to find a new group of friends to make it all seem natural. To add to these experiences, a year and a half later, I was proud new father. Let me tell you, I was a wreck for a while. All of the change created too much stress and strain. Making constant adjustments like this can be hell on a person. I don't have that job, that house, or that marriage anymore. Of course I still have my daughter. She is my favorite reminder of what true love is. She keeps me stable. She makes my life very worth living.
So you're probably thinking that I sit in a calm existence now, making every attempt I can to keep my life stable. You're probably thinking that I have rejected all things new so that I can avoid stress. Well, you're wrong. In fact, I've done the exact opposite because guess what? I survived all of that craziness that I went through. EMERGING IS AN AMAZING EXPERIENCE. In fact, I recommend it highly.
These days, I do my best not to set myself up for failure like I did somewhat unknowingly in my in my late 20s. All this being said I much state that I still take risks, big ones in fact. But they seem a little more calculated. "The New" is too fun to pass up. It is my life's adventure, my next day, my horizon in the distance. Without the excitement of a unique, new experience, we become stale. I don't want to ever become that guy sitting on the couch scared to go outside, scared to take on a new challenge, scared of failure. I want to throw myself into the new.
You should do the same. Go for it, dive in with all of your energies. I know you've had that thought to make a move, to do something slightly out of your comfort zone. Sitting around contemplating it isn't nearly as thrilling as doing it. If there is passion behind your decision, then it's bound to work out. Your motivations will be oozing from your pores. Sure, you may scare a few people with your energy, but that's their problem. You'll surely scare some because most of the time people are doing their best to stay asleep, to steer clear of things that might make them feel uneasy, to avoid something that might change their life. Don't fall into that trap yourself. There's too much to gain from taking that first step.
Just to make sure you understand how much I believe in what I am saying, I have , in fact, recently taken on a new venture, and the chemicals in my brain are screaming with such excitement that I have a hard time sleeping. I have a hard time getting through a day without distraction. I would swear that the world is a brighter place. "The New" has such a enticing draw for me and I am giving into it again with all that I have, moving towards a new horizon. Not everything in my life is changing, just one thing. So I think I'll easily survive this one. There isn't a doubt in my mind that I will emerge from this one a better person.
I can feel the growth already.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Focus
Focus has always been an issue for me...hey, wanna go ride bikes?
Kidding, but not really. My days are packed with activities ranging from one side of the brain to the other. I am crunching numbers, working out new pad designs, writing and editing code for the website, and shaping new climbing holds. I almost feel like I might just spin out of control and fall off the side of the earth sometimes. The funny thing is this is who I have always been. I like to keep it interesting. Most of the time, when I'm not driving others completely bonkers with my erratic behaviors, it works.
When I'm sitting under a boulder, it can sometimes be a problem, no pun intended. This is when I have to pull it all together, one-pointed concentration. My mind can't be on my professional projects, the beautifully clouded sky, or sound of the wind. It has to be right here, in the moment, below the boulder.
Ever been up on a problem and all you can hear is your peeps cheering for you? All of a sudden your mind transports from the rock to their point-of-view of you climbing? Not a good place to be; I know from experience.
To deal with my "issues" in a more proactive way, I have been attending a meditation class once a week. We do sitting meditation for 20 minutes, then walking meditation for 20 minutes, then we sit for another 20. When I first pondered this venture, I about freaked out. "Doing nothing for 60 minutes, no freakin' way."
Unbelievably, it work. We are encouraged to sit and think about our breath. "I am breathing in, I am breathing out." Yeah, it's tough at first, and I am constantly having to call myself back. But given enough practice, it works.
These days I sit under boulder problems and in about 3 breaths I am in the moment. It hasn't help me climb V12 yet, but maybe some day. In the meantime, the peace I get from those moments are totally worth it.
Focus can be good thing, wanna play Guitar Hero?
Kidding, but not really. My days are packed with activities ranging from one side of the brain to the other. I am crunching numbers, working out new pad designs, writing and editing code for the website, and shaping new climbing holds. I almost feel like I might just spin out of control and fall off the side of the earth sometimes. The funny thing is this is who I have always been. I like to keep it interesting. Most of the time, when I'm not driving others completely bonkers with my erratic behaviors, it works.
When I'm sitting under a boulder, it can sometimes be a problem, no pun intended. This is when I have to pull it all together, one-pointed concentration. My mind can't be on my professional projects, the beautifully clouded sky, or sound of the wind. It has to be right here, in the moment, below the boulder.
Ever been up on a problem and all you can hear is your peeps cheering for you? All of a sudden your mind transports from the rock to their point-of-view of you climbing? Not a good place to be; I know from experience.
To deal with my "issues" in a more proactive way, I have been attending a meditation class once a week. We do sitting meditation for 20 minutes, then walking meditation for 20 minutes, then we sit for another 20. When I first pondered this venture, I about freaked out. "Doing nothing for 60 minutes, no freakin' way."
Unbelievably, it work. We are encouraged to sit and think about our breath. "I am breathing in, I am breathing out." Yeah, it's tough at first, and I am constantly having to call myself back. But given enough practice, it works.
These days I sit under boulder problems and in about 3 breaths I am in the moment. It hasn't help me climb V12 yet, but maybe some day. In the meantime, the peace I get from those moments are totally worth it.
Focus can be good thing, wanna play Guitar Hero?
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Working through difficult problems
ARGHHH!!!
I'm sitting here with with a look of dissapointment on my face and holes in my tips again wondering why ALL of my friends sent my project seemingly without effort. So while I have a chance to chew through these thoughts, I'll share how I usually deal.
1) The Myth of Ego- First and foremost, I dont get caught up in the ego. I am not what I think I am. I am a human, not a V-rated human. Although I may pull off that sweet rating from time-to-time, it doesn't make me a different person.
2) Learning-- Just chill and know that there are a lot of factors involved in sending those projects. Bouldering is a learning process. So even though I may know I am supposed to drop-knee to gain a little more reach, there may be more subtleties I am missing. Staying open to others' support and beta will certainly give me some insight.
3) Take it easy-- As an athlete, I have to remember and realize that I will experience highs and lows. Everyone trying to reach new heights and to push new personal levels will have good days and bad days. On days when things aren't quite going my way, I like to run around on some easier problems. This regularly reminds me that climbing is fun and that I am actually much better than I am giving myself credit for.
4) Leave it alone--Walking away for a little time may be frustrating, but doing so can always be great for you. Not only will it allow you to build some new tips, it will provide a fresh new perspective. Come back next time a remember to stay open to a new experience.
Keep pulling hard!
I'm sitting here with with a look of dissapointment on my face and holes in my tips again wondering why ALL of my friends sent my project seemingly without effort. So while I have a chance to chew through these thoughts, I'll share how I usually deal.
1) The Myth of Ego- First and foremost, I dont get caught up in the ego. I am not what I think I am. I am a human, not a V-rated human. Although I may pull off that sweet rating from time-to-time, it doesn't make me a different person.
2) Learning-- Just chill and know that there are a lot of factors involved in sending those projects. Bouldering is a learning process. So even though I may know I am supposed to drop-knee to gain a little more reach, there may be more subtleties I am missing. Staying open to others' support and beta will certainly give me some insight.
3) Take it easy-- As an athlete, I have to remember and realize that I will experience highs and lows. Everyone trying to reach new heights and to push new personal levels will have good days and bad days. On days when things aren't quite going my way, I like to run around on some easier problems. This regularly reminds me that climbing is fun and that I am actually much better than I am giving myself credit for.
4) Leave it alone--Walking away for a little time may be frustrating, but doing so can always be great for you. Not only will it allow you to build some new tips, it will provide a fresh new perspective. Come back next time a remember to stay open to a new experience.
Keep pulling hard!
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Thanks to the CWA
Just a quick shout-out to all of the folks at the CWA Summit in Boulder, CO.
Bill, Andrea, and the board really put on a great show.
It is always nice to see the indoor community come together and share ideas and information.
I particularly enjoyed hearing about how the industry continues to grow as we support the youth. It is great that we are creating a community that emphasizes education, fun, and a focus on learning to succeed and to work through struggles.
Bill, Andrea, and the board really put on a great show.
It is always nice to see the indoor community come together and share ideas and information.
I particularly enjoyed hearing about how the industry continues to grow as we support the youth. It is great that we are creating a community that emphasizes education, fun, and a focus on learning to succeed and to work through struggles.
Climbing in Joes Valley
Just got back from Joes in Orangeville, Utah.
That place is unbelievable in the sense that there is a dense collection of high quality bouldeering problems like I haven't seen before. The wetaher in late April beats every other time I have been there as well. It was 60 degrees during the day and 30 at night. The wind one evening was a bit to bare, but I just slept in and made up for the restless sleep.
Problems to check out, or better stated>>must do problems at Joe's.
Skins Game- V4
The Dyno behind Scrawny and Brawny- V5
Wills a Fire- V6
The Runt- V7
3 Weeks - V8/9
Wind Below- V8
The crowds were thin during this time of the year and everyone we came in contact with was super approachable and nice. Thanks to everyone for creating a cool vibe.
That place is unbelievable in the sense that there is a dense collection of high quality bouldeering problems like I haven't seen before. The wetaher in late April beats every other time I have been there as well. It was 60 degrees during the day and 30 at night. The wind one evening was a bit to bare, but I just slept in and made up for the restless sleep.
Problems to check out, or better stated>>must do problems at Joe's.
Skins Game- V4
The Dyno behind Scrawny and Brawny- V5
Wills a Fire- V6
The Runt- V7
3 Weeks - V8/9
Wind Below- V8
The crowds were thin during this time of the year and everyone we came in contact with was super approachable and nice. Thanks to everyone for creating a cool vibe.
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