A cool video of Katie Lovelace

Courtesy of http://goclimbarock.wordpress.com/

Max Zolotukhin pulls ridiculous numbers

Orville's Pirates Cove Experience

With cool dark blue water, and golden sand, climbing is probably the last thing that would come to mind, until you get there. You walk down stairs into a cove with rocks all around, their height ranging from 20 to almost 70 feet tall. There is one main climbing area, the roof. Completely horizontal in parts, the hardest route coming out is a V7. The holds are the part I remember the most though, not the water, or the sand, or the fact I’m climbing on the beach, but the holds. On the routes, there isn’t a sloper route, or a crimper route, but more like a mixed route, going from crimp to jug, to pinch, to pocket to sloper.

Watching ships sail by, and chalking up my hands is truly a unique experience. There is no one I wouldn’t recommend this to. With a lot of a walls unchalked, there is definitely room for more routes, if only someone would establish them…

Orville Clarke III

Big Dyno on Spindler in the City of Rocks, ID

Alex Puccios Switzerland Blog

Switzerland!!!

I arrived in Europe about 3 weeks ago now and had a little rough start to the trip when I hurt my shoulder a little in the gym the day after I got off the plane. I thought it was going to be bad, but 2 weeks later I was ready to hit the rock, FINALLY!
I'm now in Switzerland. The first few days Chris and I went to Magic Wood. It was a little sad the forest was all wet, But he still showed me everything and I fell in love in with it. After looking around for a while we found 2 dry boulders, Never Ending Story part 2 (V11) And Massive Attack (v11/v12). NES part 2 was my very first boulder problem in Magic Wood… I was surprised that I got up in so quick. I fell on the first move a bit and the time I finally stuck the first move I sent! Then to the left I saw Massive Attack and got up that in a few tries. even though 95% of the forest was wet and mucky I was able to leave the forest feeling accomplished. What a great feeling to be here!
Next day...
I now sent Never Ending Story Part 1 (V12) ….. Yeah! So psyched. Only took a few goes! Now I'm super psyched to do the link since both parts have gone! Never Ending Story here I come!!!
But first off to Cresiano for a few days to let the forest dry out. then back to Magic Wood!

The next day I made did 2 more V11's, Octopussy and Free For All. They both went down really quick as well. Free For All in 3 tries and Octopussy took a few more. Again they were the only things we found dry in the forest. Cant wait for all of it to dry up!

Orville's Comp Blog

Recently I attended a competition, The Gun Show, at the Spot in Boulder Colorado, It’s part of the ABS and the Spot bouldering series. There were almost two hundred people competing there, many of whom where some of the best climbers for their age I’ve seen. The head problem setter there is Carlo Traversi and by far some of the best setting I have had the pleasure to climb.
My personal results were third place in youth B, a standing I’m very proud of. My scorecard didn’t look like what it should’ve but I proved sufficient. I flashed all five of my problems, A8, A9, A10, O1 and O3, yet I couldn’t manage to get anything more even though I had all my problems halfway through the comp. I’m eagerly waiting for my next opportunity to climb at the Spot, competition or not.

Although I didn’t have huge expectations for the bouldering competition at the Front Idaho, it didn’t disappoint. The comp, Boise Boulder Fest, was a typical three-hour red-point format, (and to prevent from crowding) had two different comps with an onsite comp for the finals. To qualify for the finals you had to get top five over-all from both sessions, regardless of division. Despite the small gym size, the Front had more than enough problems to keep me busy all comp long.

I managed to get into the finals in third place overall, but didn’t complete any finals problems. On the first finals problem, the third move is a sideways dyno to a sloper that I managed to grab, but my feet swung and cut my hands off the wall. When I landed, I mildly twisted my knee and sat out for the rest of the finals. My favorite problem at the comp was an easy V8 that I didn’t manage to finish, but I’m confident if I was back there now it would be a piece of cake. It was a crimpy beginning to a gaston to a sloper-crimp then a big move to a mini-jug and finished on edges. I got to the second to last move, took my hand off of the bottom hold and my top hand was to tired to hold my weight. I enjoyed the comp, and it’s shaping up to be a good season!

A Post from Adam MacKenzie

Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Comps and Camera
Finally I am starting to feel strong once again. For the first time in a few months, I feel almost back to where I was before the injury. Last Thursday was the first of two Donkey Kong Comps at Rock'n and Jam'n 2. I was able to send 23 out of 35 problems. This coming Thursday is the second comp at the North Rock'n and Jam'n. Doing 23 problems last Thursday has put me in a good spot to hopefully finish in first for both comps.
Before the Gun Show at The Spot I purchased the new Nikon D3100. The main reason behind this purchase was to be able to get higher quality climbing footage from all of my adventures. I was able to test it outside last Sunday and start to put it through its paces. I am very excited to what this camera can do. Look for some great new videos in the coming weeks.