Craig Hurst gets a DeadPoint Write-up

Click on the link below to see Craig's Article!

http://deadpointmag.com/news/170-craig-hurst-and-idaho’s-latest-v13.php

Craig Hurst Brings his sick crimps to Asana

Craig is our latest recruit to the Asana Team. He brings great experience from climbing and from working at a local climbing gym. He just recently put up a V13 in Castle Rock, ID and is now working on another one!
age- 22
years climbed- 6
best climbing experience- as i traveled through the brush on a back pack trip for 8 days! i found a boulder! how amazing it is to climb next to a lake and touch a rock that you know no one has ever climbed. even though it was an easy problem it was a new connection to climbing i had never had!
biggest accomplishments- the training and effort that went into getting the strength to climb "GREEN IN THE FACE" V13
favorite style- i like most styles of climbing for they complement each other and help you get better in all areas, but bouldering is definitely my favorite!
favorite climbing quote- i am a climber therefore i must climb- Dave graham
food- pasta!!!
music- a mix of everything i enjoy finding new bands and experiencing new sounds.
anything else people need to know about you- i climb more then most and i enjoy it as much as i enjoy breathing it is my passion and joy! climbing has impacted me and my life more then anything else.

Ryan Guerra is on the Team!

Ryan Guerra, local Strong man in Boise, ID joins the Asana Team. Here are some tidbits about him for those who want to know what it's like to be a 16 phenom.

Age- 16
Years climbed- A little under 4
Best climbing experience- Most of them are really good. Any time I spend with my friends, out in nature, climbing hard, and just overall having a good time is great. My best moment was probably my one day trip to Joe's Valley last summer, because it just highlighted everything I love about climbing. The area is beautiful as is the softness and color of the rock. While we were there we met Ryan Held (Team Captain) and Kelsey Fair and they were glad to just show us (Me, Craig Hurst, Corey King) around. It was just nice to be in a beautiful place, climbing, with some good friends and be able to meet people for the first time and experience the kind of friendliness and hospitality shown by Ryan and Kelsey. One of the coolest things about climbing has got to be the people.

Biggest accomplishments-
Involving myself in the world of climbing would be my absolute biggest accomplishment, but in terms of actual problems, my current hardest is Catalysis, v10.

Favorite style- Bouldering on techy slopers or compression type sloper problems. I like it all, but this style just fits me best.

Favorite climbing quote- I have a few, this is just the one that comes to mind right now. I read this on a french climbing forum and it's not particularly directed at climbing, but I applied the message to climbing and it helps me to define why I climb: "J'ai appris que tout le monde veut vivre au sommet de la montagne, sans savoir que le véritable bonheur réside dans le maniére de l'escalader." It translates to "I learned that everyone wants to live on top of the mountain, without knowing that the true happiness lies within the climb" I take it to mean "Don't worry about the top or your status as a climber, we do what we do because we love the act of climbing."

Favorites Foods- Well, I pay quite a bit of attention to health. I've been a vegetarian for around 5 years and my dad makes the best vegetable minestrone soup ever. But, I'm soon going to make the switch to veganism using a food guide designed to help athletes, and see whether or not it helps my climbing.

Movies- I love pretty much everything Big Up puts out, but if I had to make a list of my top 5 I would say: Dosage V, First Ascent, Dosage IV, Best of the West, and King Lines

Music-Haha, this is a hard one to answer because I like a lot of genres. Basically everything except for the new country stuff. Old style country is alright though.

Anything else people need to know about you-
I'm just excited to be climbing and enjoying life. I spend a lot of time working and doing school work, but its worth it so long as I get to climb. I'm pretty friendly and I travel a bit, so if anyone sees me climbing around, I'm always ready to meet new people.

Asana Climbing Welcomes Katie Lovelace to the Team

We are so stoked to have Katie Lovelace join our team of strong, committed athletes.

Here are some facts you need to know about Katie.

age-17
years climbed-5
best climbing experience- climbing in Thailand!
favorite style-crimpers
favorite climbing quote- spread your legs and trust the rubber!
food- doughnuts, goldfish and any kind of fruit
movies-comedy movies
music- slightly stoopid, dispatch, band of horses, iron and wine, modest mouse, built to spill, ratatat, citizen cope, dave matthews, state radio... the list could go on and on

ASANA INSTALLS FRONT PADDING!

Boise Front is Open!!
We are so stoked to be a part of Boise's first bouldering gym.
We built the enormous 1400 sf padding system which is a massive 12 inches thick.
People have already been taking huge falls and experiencing the comfort of the landing!

Go to frontboise.com to get more information about climbing in Boise!!

The Front organization from Salt Lake City has invested in our community, and we want theank them for that.

Awake in the Mountains

By Asana Athlete Ryan Held

            I awoke with such ease after the night we endured, and removing the condensation from my truck shells window I was delighted to not see rain flurry and lightening.  In an effort to avoid the increasing temperatures in Joe’s Valley we left the day prior under a brilliant clear sky and headed straight for the mountains.  Our approach to the mountains was quite uneventful as the weather was hot and stale and all of the dirt back-roads here in Utah seemed to be repaired and graded more than anywhere I have ever visited. However, as we summited we were greeted by the most torrential rainstorm I have ever experienced making us lose our way multiple times within a few miles of our destination.  But now, as I stare out the windows at an incredibly different landscape from whence we had come; we were safe and I was comforted that we would have a week of solace in the trees.

            Before bright light adorns the landscape there is a blue hue to all that was consumed by the prior evening’s darkness, a veil that is only lifted by the rising of the sun.  Though this moment is brief it is of great importance to me as this rare shade of blue exhibits the calm energy of a forest about to wake, and though I don’t get to see it often, it is my favorite time of day.

At 10,000 feet the sun takes its time to rise and the bordering forest of huge conifers allow the first rays of light to penetrate only small patches of forest leaving most in the blue-hued darkness of early morning.  And in this rare observation of nature one cannot help but draw parallel to walking along a very old, dimly lit hallway of some small European gallery and seeing Rembrandts work for the first time; which brings such contrast of light in the objective foreground while darkness dominates the backdrop.

            The view allowed revelry in the sheer artistic brilliance of the mountains, which in my opinion is beyond comparison.  

The passing clouds of mid-day brought definition of the highest caliber in a conjunction of shade and light in which shadows danced unrestricted on the forest floor.  High winds blew with such persistence over the cloudscape that if one stared upon a desired location for more than a few moments would feel transfixed as if in a slighted hallucination from the condensed water vapors ever-changing distortion of shadow and anti-shadow on the forest floor.

            Wearily I rested, feeling the nagging persistence of an unmoved body, which up until this point was out of bed by 7am and did not care to return until well after nightfall.  My coveted interest, to surmount any challenge to its utmost physical degree, had been squandered by a deep nagging feeling in the left wrist and an overwhelming sense of exhaustion throughout.  In an uncollected haze I slept and woke, and in this loose state I spent most of our first day in high-elevation as if in a lucid dream.

            It is so unusual for me to rest as thus and by the late afternoon I couldn’t help but think that I was doing something that was “inefficient” and therefore wrong.  This is the constant struggle I encounter on rest days and days of bad weather.  I argue with myself that weakness is the only byproduct of the sedentary and force myself out of my cocoon and venture to the boulders, that as of yet I had not seen, but know are just on the other side of the surrounding conifers.

            The stone here is very dissimilar to that of Joe’s Valley.  In Joe’s the sandstone boulders are usually formed in a somewhat oblong or rectangular prism shape with very high contrast of color in their elegant yet stark streaks of black oxidized Iron, white, blue and orange calcite, brown and tan sandstone.  The grips are of a resolute structure in their uniform edges, small acute pockets, rain-carved tufas and slashes of all directions and lengths.  Because of the great expanse of Joe’s Valley boulders and of their building bloc (and sometimes building size) shape, 

it is a world class destination leaving canyons such as this far off the beaten path for the modern boulder and are therefore pristine and secluded.

The architecture of the large granite stones here are more subtle in their features, which are mostly slopers, large edges and slopey jugs.

Their contour lines are of freshly unearthed gemstones still exhibiting their rigid non-symmetrical earthly purity before being altered by human hands, having been sculpted by millennia of strong weather: deep snow, crushing rainfall, high winds and penetrating sunshine.  The boulders ability to change color between shade, cloud and intensity of sunlight leads one to wonder whether their base layer is ultimately orange or pink, as covering almost every square inch of them is a green lichen, and a shade of green unseen by mine eyes until the observation of the metamorphosing cicada of June in Joe’s Valley.

            These massive gems that sit rightly amongst a field of almost endless blue and grey talus defined their starkness even further.  And as I explored further up the first gulley I saw the expanse of the massive cliff band from which these boulders were born.  

Alone I gazed and thanked Mother Nature for her captivating architecture in not leaving a single detail of beauty unsung, and in one crisp exhale I let my indignation and trepidation which hung for a moment in the oncoming nights cool air but quickly dissolved into the late afternoon breeze.  At once I was contented and felt the need to have a taste of the stone.

            

Within the Call of the Wild

By Asana Athlete Ryan Held

The air was thick with Juniper as we ascended the trail opposite the mine.  Upon noticing this domination of fragrance a thought flashed through my mind, “it is already done.”  This moment of clarity assured me that I had prepared rightly for the send and I made a pact with myself and audibly with Kelsey as we continued up the well worn path furthering ourselves from the now deserted coal excavation project in the right fork of Joe’s Valley.  I felt the great strength of those vows, as infrequently they come, but always rich in vigor and boosting confidence.  We knew not the name of this problem nor it’s grade and therefore felt more intrigued by the shear size of the bloc, the contour of it’s varied shapes and it’s delicate line of holds.

            The thick resinous scent of the junipers was quickly replaced by the sweet smell of various sages as we approached the boulders and the sky grew dark.  The acuteness of odor made our travel light and swift and as our faithful four-legged companion bounded effortlessly through the fresh field of foxtails, I knew the struggle was over before I put hand to stone.  Standing under the overhang the rain-laden darkness had penetrated the entirety of the sky and made me even more hungry to crush every hold and finish the problem first try of the day.

            In the rarity of such moments I like to remember Churchill; for he has portrayed the emotion I experienced flawlessly:  "I felt as if I were walking with destiny, and that all my past life had been but a preparation for this hour and this trial.”

            Baited in the silence offered only to confident warriors I began my ritual, for now I was in my church, the church of stone: Arrange the pads, approach shoes off allowing my feet to cool to the proper fit of my Projects, the sound as I crush the minute particles of White Dirt deep into my hardened pads, eyes closed, the swing of my arms testing the thickness of moisture in the surrounding air and pushing the blood-energy toward the necessary extremities, deep uji breath to bring the heart rate down, relax the mind, and quell the adrenaline in my system.

            “It is already done” flowed so effortlessly through me that I could not decipher whether I had just thought of it or if it had always been there, and all my skill and strength was pushed into the proper channels ready for use.

            In my next realization, and with still relaxed breathing, I was standing on top and again it echoed, “It is already done.”

            Before I became conscious of it, like a man possessed, I had made the first move to the small incut,

high-stepped left to the edge under my hand, matched and floated effortlessly to the jug with so much power that I could hardly believe I had subjectively done the work required.  When it was finished, I could not recall how I made these effortless movements… it was as if I was being moved, as a queen on a chessboard with no hindrance in direction.  I was but an object, and whether I was moved by the mover, attractor, skill, or fate: the all-encompassing feeling of unadulterated movement was my Presence and I knew instantly why I climb: mind, body, soul and nature become one, and I am finally free.

            “There is an ecstasy that marks the summit of life, and beyond which life cannot rise.   And such is the paradox of living, this ecstasy comes when one is most alive, and it comes as a complete forgetfulness that one is alive.”   -Jack London, The Call of the Wild

 

Take me down to Mexico, Rosarito, Baha California

--From the Scotty Glasburg Travels

After St.George had brang what it brought.
I was asked to take a vacation.
I wondered where the trip was going to take me, until the words escaped my friends mouth there was no debating.
The words he spoke I seemed to be relating.
So a trip to baja is what was instated.
A friend of theres whom I’d heard much about
Packed up what he needed and took his plane down south.
When he was down there they saw mountains of asure.
Like the cows of mexico the I-1 was our pasture.
We reached the mountains after 24 of drivin’.
To huge cliffs along the gulf’s water we were arrivin’.
We hiked up to the cliff, along the side of life,
Converstion ruled the nation,much of to my delight.
With the gulf was to my left and a huge cliff to my right.
The touch of the wall was didn’t match it’s height,
Throw up a couple top ropes when the sky dawns light.
But a weird occurance happened that night .
About 3 a.m. I woke up with fright, a skunk had beared down it’s hair down, biting my friend with it’s might.
We all woke up except Chris in his van, as Sean bashed the mother f’er right off his hand.
Sean sat with no words, as the skunk came back, Kevin Worall gota rock and got on the attack. He picked up a rock and boy did he shock, the thing on the head, it just lied dead so we wrapped it up.
The thing was rabid, and my friend had been bit, so Kevin Worall, Dave from La Jolla and Sean had to dip.
To La Paz they went so Sean could fly out. That’s when C.L. and I took another route.
Along the free way we drove, sippin’ brew and burrito’s. bumpin’ music for amusement, to where the water would glow.
So at about 3 we reached Canajo, a surf spot, where the coast got the best swell it could know.
The lefts were bangin’, metered lefts were arrrangin’, take it all the way in, paddle out for the next set that came in.
The a.m. was weird, Kevin and Dave disappeared, the hangers and times had bounced for the worst that we feared.
But around the corner in the night they had slept,in an enclosed bunker on the out on our left.
3 days had passed a hell lot of driving, as rock climbers were we’re strivn’ for an excellent cliff, where routes we would uplift, offered in future they’d appear as a gift.
To Sierra De San Francisco,we would go, Kevin recommended he’d been there ten years before.
We got to the top, to reach a small community, of western value, was devalued, where life seemed exist in some sanity. We hiked down to the canyon, under afternoon light, we saw features for potential new routes to be administerd for delight. In the morning light we hiked and did the same, to put a route up and boot up and give it a name.
But the routes we found weren’t all that we sought, and decided not to use all the bolts that we bought.
So after that night, we settled in the tent, pouring tequila shoulda’ seen what our words would invent.
The community existed of Cheeba Hearders, who hiked down, right down into the canyon we rappelled. We gave the kids magazines, actually help us to help them all this rock in our dreams, could end in a place where theres means. The next morning we hiked to a small close cliff, so much searching and hiking it appeared as a gift.
Two Anchors we drilled, as we cleaned the routes, we would teach the community how to put these to use. We donated ropes, my harness is now in Baja, over the waist of my Mexican bruddah’
We didn’t find the next best area, we didn’t find or climb the next coolest routes, but all that searching and hiking we found something more, how climbing can reach out all over the world. To touch, a new , to learn , to see, maybe climbing is a medium to set the world free. I know what I found was something so good, to come back to Sierra De San Fran I knew that I would. Bringing bolts and more hangers, I’d do all I could. What we found, were good drives and amazing things, who knows what adventure traveling, and climbing can bring.

The Visitor XL

Check out our new climbing hold, The Visitor at www.asanaclimbing.com/climbingHolds.htm

Thoughts Aboiut Climbing

Asana Fun-Thoughts about Climbing that are Bridging Social Barriers

by: Scotty Glasberg

These days, rock climbing is growing and starting to attract a more and more diverse group of people. From the vast expanses of India to the islands of Hawaii people are all chalking up to climb. Younger people are cranking stronger than ever, and newbies are getting introduced to the sport everyday. What makes climbing fun for a population with such diversity? I stopped writing about my travels to document an interesting concept that fuels the direction of the future.
I went around Hueco Tanks asking this question: “What makes climbing fun for you??? “The first thing that comes to mind. “
Here’s what I found:

I don’t know…I don’t think about it. Climbing with my friends, traveling all over the world, meeting people..I’m able to sustain a lifestyle in which I can work minimally.
-Dan Brayack (Climbing Photographer)


“To succeed at something…to succeed at something that I though I couldn’t do. “
-Moti (Israel)

“Being able to focus on something, and turning everything else off.”
–Stephanie Antezana


“The best natural rush you can get from any physical activity.”
–Scott Fitzgerald (asana athlete)

“It frees your mind from a lot of stressful situations and allows me to be free out in nature. “
–Kasper Derkinderen (Belgium)

“Environment. “
“ Environment?” I said…
“Yep. “
–Dave Grimes

“Mental Challenge .”
-Michael Hudson

“The challenge it gives you. The rock is a static inanimate object it doesn’t care about you, it doesn’t care if you have money, if your good looking or not, if your black, white, Japanese, it’s just there to challenge you. “
–Charles Kelly (Hueco Rock Ranch Headman)


“In the tanks I am psyched on meeting people that are just as passionate about climbing as I am.”
-Randy Hill

“I think there is many reasons. For example, traveling meeting nice new people, there are different places to explore and the medium of climbing gets me out of society’s constraints. “
–Ruben Mariscal (Basque Region, Spain)

“Climbing is sort of like a vehicle. It allows me to travel to new areas, and meet new people as well. Climbing is also inspiration for photography.
–Carlos Mason
(Climber Videographer/Photographer, albertmason.com)

No matter how you look at it, sideways, straight forward or upside down with double toe hooks; the ideas about what makes climbing…well, climbing; bridges barriers that have divided folks for years. I think that Charles may have said it best:
“The challenge it gives you. The rock is a static inanimate object it doesn’t care about you, it doesn’t care if you have money, if your good looking or not, if your black, white, Japanese, it’s just there to challenge you. “
–Charles Kelly (Hueco Rock Ranch Headman)
The rock has no perception; maybe this is why we all perceive it with such unanimity. Climbing is like a timeless classic, the movie can’t perceive the viewer, and the viewer must perceive the film. A timeless classic unites the thoughts of people without regard to race, ethnicity, social status or religion. Alike, the joy of simply scaling a rock stimulates thoughts that bridge the gaps that divide us socially, while uniting a community universally.

I hope you enjoyed the findings as much as I did. Remember, climbing is all about having fun.

Happy New Year!!

The Asana Crew got out yesterday to do some climbing at Swan Falls on a semi-blustery, but beautifully blue-skied Idaho afternoon. Thanks so much to Mike McClure, Matt Fultz and the rest of the Swan establishing crew for the Black Flake and for Death Proof: Amazing problems! Anyone dropping into that area should get some beta and give these problems a throw.
Sus also put up a great problem just next to the ApeMan boulder. Really cool problem with a powerful off-the-ground move to some highly textured knobs. The following moves include amazing slopers and some serious high-stepping to small crimps. After a great 3-person send train, we think it goes at like V6. He called the gropey line "Static Bling".
Conrad and Sus were both on fire getting the direct send of Black Flake (V6ish). Conrad also did the sit, which looks like a definite use of power.
Finally, Conrad wrapped up the day with a dramatic sun-setting send of Death Proof (V10). Those slopers are so steep that it seems almost impossible that anyone could stick. Thank goodness for chilly friction.