From the Road..Install #2

There is no more dream or ecstasy than smelling the bread of the future, being baked behind a barefoot princess. The fall wind is blowing while the landscape is new, and your work is done and talk is to be made, and maybe more so love. The kids run barefoot playing pleasantly where ever your mind pictures them playing, for they are the relaxation of a kerosene lamp that burns while you read your favorite book.
You can sit with your friends at the boulders or routes to walk around while the crisp winds blow in another season fashioned by your mind. Damo's bare head resembles no sign of age, but signs of wisdom and Buddha monks. We joke and walk and eat and climb, and poke fun, and sleep, and dream, and meditate and wake. The sun shines on the steam of Soy milk and coffee. Schatt's bakery brings good notions, where ever I am I'm sure I'll find this same pleasant company.
I can't wait to indulge in a family gathering meal or restaurant, now that my moneys is saved. Either breakfast or dinner with Pancho Joes and Senorita Misses.
The plan was to go to San Francisco, though the truth was the sun shone on me here in the mornings with such peace and tranquility it is too hard to move. The night was the same but the stars and dim fires tickled my eyes. The river is so nice to wash with in the morning and night. I didn't move, and three hundred bucks goes and does much more than just three hundred bucks.
Standing out front of Wendll's gift shop getting post cards, for Mom, Dad, Cousins, and my girlfriend , I informed Lahna I wouldn't be coming out, (Lahna's my girlfriend, well..). She then informed me that it just wasn't working out. I thought it was working out, I mean I was calling to let you know I had just almost been enlightened and that the peacefulness of the woods would just have to prolong my stay a bit. Who wouldn't want a counterpart that had been so at peace while alone? Or the type of guy who could fix up the best plate of beans and rice and vegetables and oil and nuts and raisins and apples and oranges, and flax seed and soy milk and homemade pancakes! And who reads and writes a lonely zen scripture, when lonely is not lonely just nothing that is nothing.
I'm not here to proclaim love, or not proclaim love, I am only here to inform, my words will lead you.
My dreams of love are in different sights and pastures, and ranges and mountains, and friends and food and family and new experiences delightful and pleasant so spare, to mornings of changing in chilly and bare, temps that excite you to just hug a friend, my road trip is surely now never to end.
It makes you want to surrender industrial ties and just go on rucksack revolution never dies. Bumper stickers you make, and t-shirts from Dad, who the hell could ever be sad. Come and join me. Come talk Buddha, poetry, and sit down with me, under the sky or under a tree. On the road, Kerouac, and books to be unwrapped, reading and writing has replaced my rap. But, I keep on rapping and rapping on I will do, when the season is winter I will be with you. In the peace of your mind with snow flakes that are peace, home alone, elementary school, parents, and a new niece. My mind is being born again, and you search but have found, what is whole, cause what is the new now are: those visions of old. Like feelings you get about things that you miss, don't be mistaken cause you may just miss, those old thoughts are more real and alive in present, and now, like when I miss days of schooling I am learning now.
As for the baked bread in the kitchen with walnuts, and olive oil, and berries and dates, and almonds, and soy milk and love and cooking mitts and snow and leaves and children and new images of places you have never seen but know they make you happy. Those are my mind right now. My imagination is no longer imagination, because my life is imaginary. I am the director in the screenplay of life, so buy your ticket, because I have my whole life to do what I haven't done already. To all my friends I love you, and my family you are my comfort and love and joy I look forward to; and my girl who ever you are I know your there and I love you also. I don't care what you look like anymore, as if I ever did. For now for you readers, just put on that imaginary head dress, and walk around cause now one will see it except you. 50 feet tall with feathers and beads and wind blowing front yard rainbow twirlers, and Buddhas, and crosses, and little shrines. No one else will see you walking through the fall's leaves with the head dress, only you know it is there. That is your mind, and with that, going out or not, my love will always be there for who ever loves me.

On the Road, Install #1

Scotty hits the road!!

Freedom on the open road, the bars of modern reality. I gripped the steering wheel with tight-clenched palms, because the road in front of me was foreign. San Diego drifted far behind me, not visible, even through the obscured view my packed trunk provided. My aim was Las Vegas to a friend’s house, where I would rest one night and continue on my travels.
I hadn’t climbed for three weeks, while not on the rock; long distance running and surfing had been a ritual of mine.
“I hadn’t driven by myself for five hours for a long time” I reminded myself.
The trip to Las Vegas seemed some sort of natural psychedelic experience. “This is a turning point in my life,” as my mind wandered in retrospect. Alone that day, I tried to forgive myself for some of the things I have done in the past. For years that seemed deterred I replace with positivism. For others I may have harmed, I would have to forgive and thank them for their patience. My jealousy, yearning, and gluttony to may have lead in another path, had to be surrendered.
Apple Valley had an interesting notion, “when you drive with posture, your energy is better.” I slumped. and returned to posture, slumped and returned. “Ha” that’s funny how that is.
I was getting hungry so in Baker I ate some left over rice, Nan, and Vegetable Curry. Baker was desolate. Under a king of Egyptian desert skies, the skies rotated endlessly with toxic beauty. But, the only animals that walked the city were undernourished rats that sipped high fructose corn syrup on nomadic ventures between Saudi Arabian drive thru liquor stores.
The day before the trip, I ran 20 miles continuously in four hours in ten minutes. The run was the farthest I had ever done. I think my body responded harshly nearing Clark Mountain. Engulfed by Flu like symptoms: Chills, Nausea, and a headache, I told myself:
“I’m getting sick…Great!” I cursed.
Just the time to be getting sick, right at the beginning of a four month road trip. I rolled into Vegas delusional. The bright lights and the mixed thoughts that ran through my head were nothing less than distracting. I pulled up in front of the house, and my phone rang immediately,
“Where are you?” Chris questioned me.
“I’m out front dude, I’ll be there in a second."
I got the news that the some of the Big Up posse was going to inhabit my sleeping spot.
“Sweet” I thought to myself, “looks like this trip is starting off great.”
Stepping onto the outside patio Chris showed me my sleeping area. I grabbed my Sir Lands A lot crash pad and lay down.
I was running a pretty bad fever so I grabbed frozen Bananas from the fridge and a jug of water from the car. I got sleep, then woke, sleep, then woke. I chugged almost a whole gallon that night, and it turned out to be the trick. I woke in the morning feeling like I didn’t sleep enough, but the groggy state I slumped in the house with, was gone.
The next morning I sipped coffee with Brett Lowell, Chris Sharma, Dahlia, and a charming suspect named Cooper. My schoolwork was at my fingertips, while my hands urged to be on the wheel driving to Rifle.
I entered my car around 2 p.m. and started venturing to Colorado. I aimed for Grand Junction considering I could sleep there, wake, and do some homework before meeting with Eduardo Baca, my partner, and El Prechero Chico native.
The sleep there was peaceful, for I was now in uncharted land. My first breakfast on the road was pleasant and while the sky cried I watched time fly by, fully realizing how lucky I really am.
I met my partner Eduardo and his friend Scott in town around three at Rifle Community Library. I worked on homework till the library closed, and took a quick run to de-stress from the homework load. I then jumped In the Colorado River, changed my clothes and ventured back to my car to cook a Vegetarian Cuisine.
The sky the next morning had been kissed by the moon as she skipped away to make room for the sun. The skies were gorgeous and I had now decided to go check out Rifle State Park.
The leaves here are taking on beautiful colors. Fall is starting and the temperatures are perfect. The climbing in Rifle is like your typical limestone, just a lot of it in a very small concentration. Rifle has styles from technical vertical faces, to steep overhanging jug hauls.
Ethan Pringle and Scott Cory just rolled into town, and we scoped this area called the Fortress. East Coast Ballers Joe Kinder, his girlfriend Colette, and Dave Graham are also out here having fun and sending all the hard routes. Joe is really close to sending Kryptonite(14c) up at the Fortress. I have enjoyed climbing with my friends at this cool, not so well traveled cliff. I would definitely like to spend more time up at the Fortress sometime later in the season.
As for myself, school is occupying all my rest days! I am taking 2 online correspondence courses: One course is Nutrition and the second learning how to build a website using XHTML code. It’s really amazing I produced this blog update, because all my rest days I am swamped with school work. I told myself before the trip that school would come first. Climbing has slowly crept up again, and I know find myself sacrificing homework days for climbing days more often than vice versa.
Going Solo my dreams have never been in such vivid color. Driving from Rifle to town in the morning, I’ve never felt so refreshed, knowing that climbing and the beauty of my surrounding is providing a comforting home for a temporary time. The beauty of traveling is so amazing; I really don’t see myself getting home anytime soon. Until then, I have a test to study for!

Anticipation of a New Season

OK, I'm finally beginning to believe that the Boise weather is truly changing. It always teases the senses this time of year with s touch of chill here and there. The evenings are getting cooler and cooler and the scooter ride to work is beginning to get almost unbearable in shorts. I look out my back door and hope that the weather holds long enough for the tomatoes on the vine in my garden will get just a couple more weeks to ripen and turn their brilliant red.
But truly, all of these things only eat up a little of my attention. Most of my thoughts these days are the upcoming bouldering season. As the giant stone beauties spend the evenings and nights in the cool air, their molecules align for perfect climbing. The feel of my cool tips and the friction on the rock will soon be a reality. It’s training and sending time. I have so many projects and new lines in my head; I can hardly get anything else done. I just want to sit under the boulder and stare up at the sequences, becoming entranced with the potential movements…

On What's Important---from the coffee shop

Idle in San Diego, I belay at the local coffee shop in San Diego. Sipping green tea with milk I search my mind in retrospect over the last week of travel.
I left San Diego one week ago to attend the Salt Lake City Outdoor Retailer Trade show. I hitched a ride with Carlos Mason and Anayo Baldassari to Vegas. There, I met up with Chris Lindner, Spencer Mcrosky, (two climbing buddies whom I've spent a lot of time with this summer), and Joe Brooks. We left early Tuesday morning for Nephi, shortly west of our destination, Maple Canyon. The boys ate Taco Time right off the exit, where I was surprised to find whole wheat.
Annually, an event dubbed, "Cobble fest" attracts road trippers from all over the states. The event offers an opportunity to hang out before the seasonal retailer show. One of the event organizers: Jeff Petterson, even put together t-shirts for the low key, unsponsored event. We only had about 24 hours, 3 people (joe climbed at another cliff), jet lag, and 1 rope; so it was a bit hard to get super psyched. I worked on a juggy line called 'Sprout', which involved fairly easy movement on good holds following a line out the right side of the "Pipe Dream Cave". I camped on the soft soil that night, my clothes, a burrito, wrapped in an inside out sleeping bag case, fearing rain would escape the sky. I woke more refreshed than any bed had ever hosted, I was happy to be natural.
We left for Salt Lake around 2 or 3 p.m., checked into a hotel (that was under Chris's name, supplied by Maxim) and got to partying. Even if you're competing, your main objective for the trade show, should be to drink. Don't drink much? Have a few, kick back, and shut up, cause there ain't much else to do. My shrieks of laughter pierced the car, for I laughed at no punch line, just my alcohol laden life juice, that sparkled with energy in the night.
My main objective besides letting loose, was to make some contacts in the industry. Contacting Urban Climber was a priority, as was speaking to some people from PrAna clothing. Both initiatives turned out positive. Joe Iurato from Urban Climber magazine is psyched on me doing some work, as well as I am psyched to be offered such a great opportunity. Jeff Leads handed me the unique opportunity of being able to represent PrAna climbing for years of traveling to come.
True friends are the images that come to mind, in the time we find to periodically intertwine. I find my sign corresponds to others, with people from different situations, upbringings and mothers. Like Buck Branson for instance, met him four years ago, in the front of coffee shop, his cell phone he beholds, "check out these photos from black mountain you see, this is a v10 and that person is me." Now four years have passed, and I'm on the v10, it's amazing to compare the present to then. Buck and I sat at a table this trip, and Buck is my only friend that doesn't talk shit. I respect him for that, and respect his kindness, because it's not very often on earth that you find this. It's amazing to notice, small things affect another, so next time you talk, think of the words that you mutter.
San Diego is going well. I have rekindled my fascination with running, and with sore arms and pecs from pull ups, have decided to take a few days off from climbing . Tomorrow I work at Vertical Hold, where I volunteer mornings to help young future athletes rock climb. After I'll attend a Padre game with my dear girlfriend Lahna, her mother, Dena and her mother, Lou.
Tonight, my mother's fiance, Kannen had his birthday at a nice Thai restaurant in town. Here I met a man named Jim who is the chancellor at Mira Costa College. Jim was a professional skier for Ten years. He rested at the best skiing areas when in season, and related positively toward the climbing I pursue. In a discussion ranging from Utah's blondies, to job opportunities, I concluded with a goal: Self worth cannot be measured in material wealth, or a degree. The only thing that can make one happy is a sense of spiritual fulfillment, plus the hard work that led up to it. By building climbing walls and taking kids outside, I want to help Urban Children get out of the environment they live. If I earn no money doing such, than I earned even more worth in respect, from others and myself. I want to step out of the world for a second, take a look at myself, and disengage from the selfish routine we all seem to enjoy. I have never been afraid of giving myself to the less fortunate, and along with climbing, this is something I have always been passionate about. Stay strong. -Scotty
Also my cousin Mark and awesome wife Christine have brought Charlotte Frances Lear into the world! Congrats guys, and bless my new second cousin!
Plus, don't stress, OdUb international climbing rap star and myself should be coming out with a bangin' track this season, so keep yo' headz up!

NEWS FROM THE COBRA

A BLOG ENTRY FROM KEVIN JORGESON

BOULDER OF THE YEAR 2007

Hi Everyone!!I'm hanging out in a coffee shop/kids play center. Who thinks of thesethings? Seriously! Combining one of the greatest pleasures in life (coffee)with screaming infants! Oh well.The weather has been, well, hot. Very hot. And very humid. Its kind of likedipping your hands in butter and then trying to climb holds made of glass.Still fun though!For a day by day blow of the trip, check out my "journal" on my site, but Iwanted to share some other stuff with you guys. Like pictures! Check out theattached mini trip report.Every morning I crawl out of my stinky tent (VERY STINKY), stumble around"Tarplandia" (our camp name) for some coffee, then walk up a hill to admirethe view of the valley and lake. Yesterday morning I was doing just thiswhen I saw my first bald eagle! So cool!There is sooo much to climb here. The Grand Wall, or The Chief, features 1- 7 pitch trad climbs on impeccable granite. I've get to climb this featurebut plan on it soon. I did the classic Exasperator Crack, laughing the wholeway (see pic. Its not me though).The bouldering in the forest is small and concentrated. The granite heredoesn't lend itself to many holds, so most of the boulder problems are liptraverses. There are a few good lines though, like the one in the tripreport, called Be On 4, a classic v7 Charlie Barret and I did. Super fun. Ohyea, Charlie is here! It's been awesome to hang with him this whole time.Guy is a riot. I've been up to the Cobra Crack 3 times now. See attached pic. It's reallyhard! It starts in the dihedral with some 5.12 stemming and finger locksbefore pulling onto the slab and a no hands rest. Next is another section ofhard 5.12 finger locks to a jug. From here, it's sick. Two set up moves getyou in position for a seriously hard reach for a distant lock. I've onlydone this move maybe twice. 4 or five more moves set you up for the secondcrux. You reach high with your right hand for an undercling mono with theright middle finger, backstep the left foot, and do your best to lock it offfor the next reach. Stick this, reach left hand up, pinky down lock, andkick your feet above your head into a heel toe lock. Hang off the heal toeand reach out left to some edges. Swivel out of the heel toe and high stepto a jug. Heinous! Its hard to maintain psyche when it is SO PAINFUL. Myvery first try yesterday yielded a torn pinky finger, through the tape!Anyway, enough climbing talk. The weather is taking a turn for the worst.Its raining right now and will be for the next few days. I anticipate manyrest days in front of the computer, so email me so I look like I'm doingsomething while I stare aimlessly at this screen for hours at a time, jackedup on caffeine and pastries!

Relationships and Climbing...a tough subject

by Scotty Glasberg
With only one week back at home. My mind raced between crucial decisions I had to make between school, love and climbing. “Is this class still open?”” Will it even help my future?” “I can’t take a rest day, I will become weak. Is the Outdoor retailer show worth the time and effort?” “Will it damage my relationship?” Either a “yes” or “no” would have been a sufficient answer, but only my indecisiveness would respond. Trying to meditate as I drifted over the ocean swells on my surfboard was hard. These thoughts were the mist of my mind; easy penetrable by the rays of the sun, but would take time to burn off.
This actual meteorology and the fictional weather of my mind, was a common setting in the San Diego life. School was stressing me out, which made it hard to deal with the person I am most fond of, my girlfriend, Lahna. Between the time I spent in the morning surfing, and the effort I put into climbing during the day, it was hard to give her the quality time that both of us needed. Hence, I was soon to learn, that out of the deepest moments of stress and despair, is in concealment one of the biggest lessons to be learned.
I found myself trying to live the life of a traveling climber at home. I felt more connected to climbing by doing this; life was like a constant road trip. Eating healthy is an important lifestyle to me. I consume organic Granola in the morning, covered with Dates, Bananas and covered with Soy Yogurt. I then proceed to the library, sending out emails to different people who I had to respond too.
Concurrently, I had to enroll for a good class at school, so a lot of my time in S.D. involved several trips of dropping, adding classes, meeting with counselors, and seeing if specific online classes would transfer. My mind was foggy, running around, the distractions of life became so overwhelming I couldn’t grasp anymore, what it was to be glad, simple and at peace.
Hanging out my window like a dog trying to absorb life and breathe, my girlfriends inherit beauty wisped through my hair, in the form of the wind from my open window. . It was my fault to tell Lahna that I was having trouble making decisions, because the most attractive person is a competent one. I wanted her next to me, and for all my other priorities to be unknown, or at least for only me to know. I worried about my imperfections, and tried to show her, the girl that I love so very much, that I could deal with pressures maturely.
I listened to the soothing sounds of reggae as I traveled in the misty early morning to go admire the glassy surf. Taking deep breaths eased the constant distractions that moved fluidly through my mind.
Things between Lahna and I were getting harder to deal with. She is leaving for a four year university, and I am attending online classes and practicing my rock climbing on the road. The stress seemed to climax one night when I discovered that she was not sure she wanted to consider our long distance relationship. Even if we were not going to see each other every day, our strong love would hold us together; I thought we had already worked all this out. I was amazed to her struggling with the stress of the times, just as much as I was. We proclaimed our love for each other, but I thought that night was the last time I would kiss her sweet lips.
Ironically, the next morning, I rose up singing in the summertime. Ironic because I had heard Janis Joplin speak of this phenomenon. I tried not to focus on my newest loss, and hopped quickly in the shower.
I ate my grains, yogurt, dates, and bananas accompanied with plain coffee. We drove in the morning sorbet skies to the Riverside Quarry. I received a message on my cell phone from my love, “are you in Riverside are you o.k.?”, Even though I desperately wanted confirmation she missed, I declared I need time to think. I wanted to focus on my climbing for the morning and have one day without speaking to Lahna.
I traveled home, trained at the gym, went for an afternoon surfing session, and delivered a letter to my so called “former girlfriend”. After I ate food with my mother and her fiancé, Kannen whom I enjoy, I skated down to the local market and bought the most expensive pint of beer I could find. I proceeded up to my friend’s house where I started to drink the beverage and started to loath over my loss.
I returned to my casa and couldn’t take not speaking to Lahna. Receiving a private call that night with no one on the other line, I sensed that we missed each other just the same, I then called. Her voice sounded like morning after a good night’s rest, as we then proceeded to inform each other that we wished we had hung out that day.
The next morning there was no fog at the beach, and the sun flowered across the ocean revealing the clarity of the water. We planned to meet at the local organic food store after I was done surfing. As Lahna walked in the store her face looked more beautiful than ever, and as I wrapped my arms around her beautiful frame. Buying her a drink I found no more value in the money that I would selfishly save for my climbing journeys; I felt a sense of renewal, I was so grateful to have her back, that no material item or worldly distraction could take that joy away from me. I had learned that sometimes you don’t realize what you really have until it is gone. Like Peter Tosh once said “you do not miss your water, till your well runs dry.”
We sat on the bumper of my car while listening to Jimmy Cliff and ate our meals. The pressures of school seemed minimal when everything took care of itself through online enrollment. All the classes that I needed to transfer were transferable, and I confidently walked back to the car with Lahna in the front seat feeling ready and embark to the Outdoor retailer tradeshow.
I gained knowledge about love in the time that I was back at home. When you love something so much, it is hazardous to let minor distractions come between you and something so close to your heart. Treat every moment that is to be enjoyed, with a perspective that is like the first day you were ever to experience it. With every new day, pretend like it is a new item or experience. Excited like a child, open the present of each day like it was Christmas morning. The distractions of life will ease themselves off like the ebb of the tide when I walk from the surf back to my car. Stay tuned…

C-Rad and Nate Coffman in the Boise Foothills